Route 40

Route 40 is the next big haul of the trip. After the Patagonian National Park by Chile Chico, we started the 1000km drive to El Chaltén. After an easy border crossing and being utterly confused by the border Argentinian town, stopping in the next for supplies and more confusion, we began the Route 40.

Nothing, absolutely nothing for around 800km. A gas station in a small town in between, about 5 cars over 8 hours, no bikes, a lot of Guanaco’s (so many stuck on the fence dead) and an incredible amount of wind. The wind was just smacking Hubi on all sides with such force I was swerving all over the road with little control for hours. From the 2 motorcycles we saw, they had a 30 degree plus lean to go straight. Insane. Luckily, the road was paved, well, most of it.

El Chaltén

We pushed through, and after about a 12 hour drive, made it to El Chaltén. What was awesome, the sky was clear so could see both of the two highlights, Fitz Roy and the always well hidden Cerro Torre.

Town is really overpacked filled with campers and hikers. Also a few rich kids mixed it so bars and restaurants everywhere, all hipster style. Learned that Argentinian cash machines allow 3000 ARS (about 50€) max withdrawals with a 400 ARS (6€) fee, wtf. Also paying in credit card comes with an automatic 15-30% increase in price. Grabbed a camp site, next morning with somewhat good weather made the lovely hike out to Cerro Torre. Got there, and it was hidden by clouds. All day. Damnit.

Had a communal room party that night, good thing the weather sucked so bad the next day fitz Roy got cancelled, we saw it already anyways :). But took a very easy walk to yet another waterfall!

El Calafate

Next on the way is El Calafate, bigger town but no one with tires for us after we went to a dozen mechanics, finally found some for just under 1000€, took everyone’s advice and will wait till Punta Arenas. Town is nice, hipster, tons of shops. Got Michelle some new Sunnys again, tiny load of laundry and booked a tour to the “Must See” Glacier Perito Moreno. Apparently this one is still growing which makes it unique, that and it’s about 18 stories tall. Same deal, another bus and boat ride but this time with hundreds of people and no whiskey, but still pretty.

If you are ever there, skip the boat ride and just do the panorama balcony hikes. Avoid the canteen at all costs unless you want to be filled with a kill-all rage.

After several bars and restaurants with no WiFi, grabbed our laundry and made our way to Torres del Paine.